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 ヨーロッパには、オレンジワイン協会という団体があります。イタリア、スロヴェニア、ジョージアを筆頭にワイン生産者が発足した協会です。オレンジワインの理解と普及を目的に、2回/年 開催される「オレンジワイン フェスティバル」の主催も務めています。私もお会いした事があるのですが、そのディレクターSaso Dravinec氏がオフィシャルページに執筆した「オレンジワインとは」の原文を頂いたので、ここで皆様とシェアしたいと思います。ただし、私は翻訳家ではないので、他人の書いた文章に訳は付けません。そのような理由から、英語でお付合い頂ければと思います。

Orange wine? Yes, orange wine.
 Just like the family of tastes (sweetness, sourness, saltiness and bitterness) has gained a new member – umami, orange wine became the fourth of the traditional wine colors – white, red and rosé.The term “orange wine” is more or less new. It was formed by the Anglo-Saxons in order to exactly describe a group of wines made of white grapes which are left in contact with grape skins over a longer period of time (maceration). This is a procedure usually used for red wine production. At the same time it is a traditional procedure, for white wine used to be produced through prolonged maceration even long before.This way more color pigments and tannins are eluted from the grape skins, which impart the wine with a deep color of old gold or amber. In some places, but mostly in Georgia, the term „amber wine“ is used for macerated white wine.The sensory perception range with orange wines is large. The taste is typically tannic, with the primary aroma of grapes, but also fresh fruits, with exposed herbal notes.

Naturally, orange
 The main characteristic of orange wine is prolonged maceration. Wine producers decide on different maceration times - depending on the type of grapes as well as the own wine production philosophy. The maceration time can be either short (a few days) or very long (up to half a year). The latter is concerning especially the fermentation in kvevris, the Georgian clay amphoras.Orange wines are made of healthy grapes and by natural procedures: spontaneous fermentation, no adding wine yeasts, no cooling in the fermentation phase and long aging periods on lees in wooden barrels. Orange wines are usually not filtered before bottling which is done only after the wine has cleared up – also considering moon phases.Due to the fact that orange wines are made from healthy grapes and by healthy production procedures they feature a supreme self-protection ability which is why only a small amount of sulfur is needed to keep them stable.Orange wine producers are committed to sustainable production. Many produce their wine according to the principles of organic agriculture and some of them even apply biodynamic methods. Crops are smaller than in conventional wine production and the time of aging in cellars is longer.Orange wine producers are keepers of a healthy and orderly cultivated landscape. They are keepers of tradition, for through upkeeping of old wine production procedures also already forgotten grape varieties are being preserved.

Orange wines – where they come from…
  One of the global epicenters of orange wine production is spreading across the wine growing regions at the northern Adriatic Sea – in Slovenia, Italy and Croatia. More and more wine producers are beginning to use traditional wine production procedures, combining old knowledge with new insights. One of the most exposed regions of orange wine production is stretching like an arch from Friuli over Collio, the valley of Vipava and the karst to Istria. Some globally established orange wine producers are coming from there.In the original homeland of wine, Georgia, orange wine production represents a tradition which the Georgians build their reputation upon. The wine production in kvevris – clay amphoras buried in soil – in which the wine stays in contact with grape skins for a long time after fermentation, has spread beyond the borders of Georgia, mostly to the states of Central and Western Europe.Orange wine is produced in almost all traditional wine growing regions of Europe – besides the ones stated those are Germany, France, Spain, Hungary, Serbia etc. Some producers are located also in new winegrowing regions, such as New Zealand and the USA.

Wines with a personal touch
  The orange wines are generally produced on boutique wine-growing estates. The producers are mostly farmers and almost all orange wines come from small or medium family estates.Orange wines are wines with a personal touch, for the processing of grapes as well as wine requires a lot of manual work, diligence as well as watching over the quality and aging of the product. The most exposed orange wines producers like to emphasize that their work doesn‘t allow for compromises.Orange wines have character and feature the personal touch of the author which is why each tasting in the company of the wine producer becomes a special experience.

Orange wines and food
 Due to their characteristics orange wines themselves can be considered food. They match traditional meals of the surrounding region, supremely. Due to the type of their production, they are fabulously supplementing meals one would normally suggest red wine with.They develop extraordinary harmony in taste together with fish, especially raw fish or fish with more fat. This insight is coming from Japan, where they are convinced that orange wine is the best companion to the traditional sushi and sashimi.


 果皮を醸しているだけなのに何故オレンジワインは他の白ワインと比べて値段が高いのか。と聞かれた事があります。工場のように量産できる規模ではない事から、当然1本あたりの生産コストが上がります。またリリースされるまでに熟成に膨大な時間を要します。大抵が、去年収穫して翌年の春に出すようなタイプのワインではないので、赤ワインのように3〜5年、あるいは8〜10年もの長きに渡って、作品が出来上がるのを待たなければならないのです。言うなれば、Time is moneyといったところでしょうか。最近はトレンドとしてメディアがオレンジワインを取り上げているので、造り手も売り手もやや困惑しています。今一度正しい知識と見解が必要であると感じています。また、オレンジワイン協会の方々と仲良くしているので、彼らが和食びいきなのは、SNSの影響ももしかしたらあるのかもしれません。その上、日本マーケットへの期待も感じられます。個人的には、私達が普段食べている家庭料理にオレンジワインは最も合うと思います。鰹や昆布の出汁。味噌、醤油、味醂などの発酵食品同士は、旨味も豊富です。魚の煮付け、鯵の南蛮漬け、モツ味噌煮、豚の角煮などです。塩辛なども抜群です。マリアージュは色々試してみると面白いですね。by Orange wine organization Saso Dravinec


 ここ数年、自然派ワイン(=ナチュラルワイン)を扱う飲食店や酒販店が増えてきています。パリ、ロンドン、NY、コペンハーゲン、香港、東京は自然派ワインの消費を牽引する都市でもあります。また、造り手サイドでも自然派が急激に増えています。しかし、ここまで人気を集めているにも関わらず、自然派ワインはいまだに定義がありません。おおよそ、オーガニックやビオディナミ農法を取り入れ、醸造では人為的介入を極力しない、生産者の哲学が息づいているビオワインの事を指すものだと私達は認識しています。マスターオブワインのジャンシス ロビンソンは自然派ワインについて下記のように記しています。






【プロフィール】 元ANA国際線CAが渡仏し1年間ワインを学びながらヨーロッパ各国の生産者を訪ねる。帰国後は365wine株式会社を設立。オーナー自らがスロヴェニアへ赴き、生産者とは家族ぐるみの付き合いで収穫や醸造のお手伝いもする。ワイン講師、輸入講座、大手企業のライター業も引き受けるが、1番の楽しみはインスタグラムLIVE!ワイン愛は誰にも負けない。趣味はマリアージュ研究と醸すこと(発酵食品作り)、最近はご無沙汰の一人旅(中東を中心に世界47カ国を単身訪問)も再開したいと願う。


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